By Tibebeselassie Tigabu
Ethiopian women have been categorized as among the most beautiful women in Africa.
They have a perfect balance of darker South and West Africa and whiter Caucasian and have perfect facial features, skin tone, and bone structure. However, only a handful have gained international acclaim in fashion capitals like Paris, Milan and New York while the majority struggle to make it in the pugnacious industry, writes Tibebeselassie Tigabu.
In a predominantly white fashion industry, the coming of Liya Kebede changed the game when she became the first woman of color to be named the new face of Estee Lauder cosmetics in a multimillion-dollar contract in 2003.
It was the first of its kind in the 57-year history of the Estee Lauder brand. According to the July 2007 Forbes report, she was the 11th highest paid supermodel in the world.
Liya's biggest break came in 2000 when Tom Ford hired her for his fall Gucci line. The world took notice when she was on the cover of the May 2002 issue of Vogue Paris, which was dedicated to her in its entirety.
She has also been featured in numerous various fashion magazines including Flair, Time's Style & Design, and V. She did ads for the multi-national famous lines such as Yves Saint Laurent, Dolce & Gabbana, Victoria's Secret, and Louis Vuitton.
Described as incredibly soft-spoken and elegant, Liya paved a way for other colored models to join this exclusive business. Other Ethiopians have also shined on the world stage. For instance, model Gelila Bekele, is featured in a number of prints ad campaigns including ads for Levi's, Pantene, Colgate, L'oreal; Anna Getaneh appeared on Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel and Christian Dior; Lydia Asghedom appeared in many famous runway fashion shows and was featured in ads for Michael Kors, AT&T and Macy's; and in addition to one of the tallest model's, Maya Haile and German-based model, Sara Nuru, are all glamorous Ethiopian models shinning in famous fashion weeks.
Though Ethiopian male models are insignificant internationally, the women were able to penetrate a predominantly white dominated industry. It's became common to see them in grand fashion capital such as New York, Paris and Millan.
In 2014, Forbes reported that the top-paid Brazilian model, Gisele Bundchen, was paid 47 million dollars followed by Doutzen Kroes who was paid 8 million dollars and by Liya Kebede who earned three million dollars. But far from that world, Ethiopian models are struggling to keep working with low pay in the non-existent multi-international garment factories, vibrant cosmetics industries, and in fashion magazines.
Nowadays, female models are almost everywhere. However, looking at the phenomenon of Ethiopian designers, who are trying to break into the international market and are getting visibility, the modeling business is not moving in a parallel ascension. According to two models The Reporter spoke to, the highest payment for modeling job at a fashion show is 3,000 birr per stage performance. Only a few models get to that status so many quit the business here and try to go abroad to make it in the modeling business there. There are also those who hustle with various modeling gigs. The modeling business, which is described by many as "messy," has lead many female models to compromise their principles. Many of them had affairs to get ahead in their careers.
One of the models who is taking a break from the modeling job is Yetimwork Nurbeja, 23.
With her signature bald head, it was easy for her to capture the eyes of a few designers. She has been featured in many of events, including Anna Getaneh's annual fashion show. Many recognize her from the colorful Terry Style ad at Dembel Mall.
Described as beautiful by many, Yetimwork was urged to participate in a beauty pageant in 2010. She became the first runner at the pageant, but it paved a way for her modeling career. She was disappointed with the beauty contest, because the awards that were promised to the crew were not awarded. Regardless, she pushed on in the modeling business and, she says, many doors were opened for her. Studying in Abyssinia Modeling College, according to her, added to her knowledge of the discipline and of what working in the modeling industry entails.
Since modeling agencies are non-existent in Ethiopia, Yetimwork used her network of people instead.
Designers recommend models to other designers, which is a practice that has also worked out for many of the models she worked with. Though she feels she was getting a name in the modeling business, the payment was frustrating. When she first started, the payment was 500 birr and, in a couple of more years, her payment rose to only 1,500 birr. But more than the low payment, the hustle was too painful to handle.
"Our employers do not give us our money easily. We go back and forth and almost beg them to get paid," Yetimwork says.
Usually their employers prepare contracts, but according to Yetimwork many models do not confront their employers even if they don't pay them. Apart from the money, requests for sexual favors and modeling scams are the downside of the business. Many of models quit the business in Ethiopia and opt to try in other countries.
Yetimwork, who is passionate about the modeling industry, the runway prestige, and fashion week, also wants to be part of the glorious modeling industry in other countries, so she started was the nearest destination: Libya.
But she struggled financially and came back to Addis. Apart from the financial strains, she says that the decline of the modeling business pushed her to the end her career. According to Yetimwork, many models started being entourages.
The financial frustration and misguided direction the business is heading is something that made her feel disheartened.
The business is also a bit brutal with its expectations of a specific body size and a specific look; models are turned away if they do not fulfil those criteria. For Yetimwork her natural body shape protected her from the struggle. Like many who struggle with bulimia, anorexia, and intensive exercise to keep a minimum body weight, Yetimwork's body did not change for years. She says that she did not even have to exercise. As to why the Ethiopian designer business is thriving while the modeling business is depreciating, she says the problem has to do with the little respect that is given to the business.
In response to this gap and to create professionalism, Hoora Communication is an online modeling agency established for the purpose of casting models and actors.
Established by Henock Tesfaye in 2009, the initial plan was to fill the communication gap between employers and models. It was not easy with as access to the internet was not an easy barrier to break.
Additionally, getting a lot of models through one agency was not something many employers were used to, so many doubted if it would work. Hoora trains models; does test shoots, layout portfolios, and book jobs; and earns some percentage by commission.
While struggling to make the online service work, a bad incident radically changed the modeling business. According to Henock, event organizers in Ziway took a couple of models for a show where the models were eventually raped. These types of incidents, according to Henock, hurt the business badly.
"Many parents could not see this business in a positive way. Many models did not feel safe," Henock says.
This incident was reported on the television show Police and Society on Ethiopian Broadcasting Corporation (EBC) a couple of years ago and this bad image became an unforgotten legacy of the business. Many fashion venues shut down. There are a couple of fashion venues like Sheraton and Hilton Hotel
According to Henock many of the organizers are not aware of why they organize runway fashion shows. Henock says that models are usually hired to enhance the ambience of their event with up to 30 models for a single event.
"They bombard the event with models and I don't understand why. Anybody can host an event. Why are they needed in this high of a number," argues Henock.
In many of the events, the models work for free or are paid very low. One of those shows that uses a lot of models is entitled "Esmamalehu Alsmamam" that is aired on EBC 3.
According to Henock, his agency was the one that provided the models, but they stopped doing so because of payment issues.
"They stand for a couple of hours for three shows, which will run for weeks and they only get paid 75 birr. I think this is abuse," Henock says.
According to Henock, they have a standard where they prioritize expanding the artist's portfolio, but he says it could not go with the current trend of modeling in Ethiopia.
Over the years, he also noticed how there is no sponsorship for these shows, which makes him say modeling business is not profitable. The models who want to fit into this business are hustling to catch up, while many of them, according to Henock, are trying to go abroad. In this regard, his agency was able to connect three models in America.
Since there is no demand for models, Hoora also shifted into giving acting lessons. It has become very common to see models acting in many Ethiopian films. Though the company is pushing their models to be part of the city commercials, only professional actors seem to exceed in that regard. Many models enter into the film business with entirely because of their height, body weight and facial structure.
"Many of the films want to cast beautiful, tall women and the models fit the criteria," Henock says.
In many countries, where there are multi-national clothing lines where they showcase their collection in spring and fall magazines, the different types modeling is divided into fashion, glamor, fitness, bikini, fine art, body part (such as hand modeling) and commercial print models. Models are also featured in various media formats including books, magazines, films, newspapers and TV. Celebrities, including actors, singers and sport personalities, can also get modeling contracts.
Shifting from the normal trend of runway shows, the modeling business has shifted into nightclubs. So many of the high profiled clubs, including Suba Lounge, have fashion show evenings. A couple of years ago, there was a beachwear fashion show at Club Illusion. The night was highlighted with women wearing only bikinis
"The purpose of the fashion show is clearly misguided these days. Why are they organized at nightclubs?" Henock asks.
As such, Henock is also worried about the venues; he fears that this trend might turn into sex tourism.
With this misguided move of fashion shows into nightclubs, there are many who criticize the club fashion shows for the blurred line between stripping and modeling.
Though the business is not exciting for many for models such as Selamawit Fissehatsion, 25, they still want to stay in the business. The 1.76m tall Selamawit joined the modeling business eight years ago. Prior to that, she studied at Next Designing Institute in modeling for six months.
She was also part of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism crew that went to the Algiers Festival. She is one of the models who participated in Anna Getaneh's the Hub of Africa fashion show. Since Anna's show is for charity, Selamawit does it for free, but in the other cases, her biggest payment is 3,000 birr.
In the case of the Algiers Festival, they were only given per diem since the job was to promote the country.
"Many women know how painful it is to walk on heels for long hours. We practice before the show for hours. We dedicate our time and labor, but the payment makes one fail to see the purpose of why we struggle," Selamawit says.
The labor abuse in the business and the negative stereotype about models scares her her, but despite it all, she keeps going. She thinks modeling is an expensive business because they have to pay for makeup and hairstyle.
The modeling industry in Ethiopia has come a long way in the past couple of decades. Sara Mohammed, designer and founder of Next Fashion Design Institute, was one of the few models 15 years ago. During that time, designers such as Gigi, Natalina, and Azeb were famous for presenting their designs in big hotels such as Sheraton and Hilton. They used to get paid up to 1,500 birr per stage--a payment that is close to what models get paid nowadays. Sara classifies the shows from that time as "elitist."
"Only a few people knew what the modeling business was. It had its own class; it's own standard," Sara says.
Aside from modeling in Ethiopia, Sara also went to France, but being a black model was not easy as the response she received then was rather harsh.
"I did a couple of shows and posed for photographers, but the discrimination was very harsh," Sara says.
After she came back to Ethiopia, Sara started her school with two departments: modeling and designing. Famous designers Fikrte, Aynalem and Sewasiwu were amongst the first batch of graduates from Next.
Sara eventually stopped her modeling career because her hip width did not fit the standard. She thought about surgery, but it was an expensive and complicated procedure, so she focused on her designing and her school instead. In the modeling school, their main focus is confidence and walking the catwalk. Though she is not happy about the current modeling business, her school still educates students on modeling.
Source: AllAfrica
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