We stumbled along in the darkness, the path a lighter gray amid the
deep charcoal of the dried lava fields surrounding us. Up ahead was our
goal, the dull, angry, red glow our own personal Mount Doom just over
the ridge. We were in the Danakil Depression, in Ethiopia, which has
been called one of the hottest places on Earth.
In one hand I
held a flashlight; in the other, the hand of my 7-year-old son, Ray, the
youngest member of our intrepid troop that had set out to visit one of
Africa’s most active volcanoes. Behind us stretched a faint row of
flashlights and headlamps from the other members of the team. The camels
carried our bags. The local guards carried old bolt-action rifles
across their shoulders. The dried lava around us still radiated the
punishing heat of the day.
We were in what has been called one of
the hottest places on Earth, so this final trek up to the Erta Ale
volcano had to be made after the blazing sun had set.
After a three-hour hike, we crested the ridge. Before us was the glowing caldera, filled with dancing fountains of lava.
Ethiopia
is increasingly making its mark on the global tourist map. Once just
the province of dedicated Peace Corps workers and intrepid backpackers,
newly built roads and new hotels are opening it up to the broader
tourist market.
But even for the most veteran traveler to Ethiopia — who has already visited the
baboon-infested northern highlands, the nearly inaccessible mountain
monasteries of the Tigray Region or the rock-cut churches of Lalibela —
the Danakil is in a category of its own.
A
herder leads a train of camels carrying freshly mined salt tablets from
Ethiopia’s Afar region in a trade that dates back millennia. (Paul
Schemm/The Washington Post)
This punishingly hot
lowland, set between the mountains of the Tigray Region and the Eritrean
Red Sea Coast, is home to immense salt flats that once were a major
source of wealth for the medieval Abyssinian Empire, as well as colorful
sulfur pools and the Erta Ale — or “smoking mountain” — the most
accessible of the region’s volcanoes.
And we decided to take the
kids along. There was my son, as well as a 9-year-old and 11-year-old
who, well protected by sunblock and broad hats, had a great time.
Despite the region’s forbidding reputation, a well-organized tour in
four-wheel-drive vehicles made for an unforgettable trip of four days
that included the main sights of the region, including the salt flats,
the sulfur pools and the volcano.
‘Danakil Diaries’
One
of the first Europeans to make his way through the Danakil in the 1930s
was the young British adventurer Wilfred Thesiger, who left behind the
“Danakil Diaries” about his trips through a land that had meant the
death of so many explorers before him, thanks to the exceptionally
fierce and nomadic Afar people.
He
wrote about how, for the Afar, you weren’t truly a man until you had
killed someone. “A man can marry before he has killed, but no other
woman will sleep with him,” he wrote, adding: “They invariably castrate
their victims, even if still alive.”
Yet despite these dangers,
he spent weeks exploring the area, hunting wild game and charting the
course of the Awash River. “They were a cheerful, happy people despite
the incessant killing,” he noted.
Thankfully, the rigors of the
journey are much less now. Even a few years ago, the lack of roads
through the Danakil meant long, spine-rattling trips over dirt tracks in
a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Now, new roads have been cut through the
mountains from the neighboring Tigray Region, so a journey of days is
now a matter of hours.
We set off from Mek’ele, the capital of
the region and a bustling, comparatively new town located a short flight
from Addis Ababa. Our convoy consisted of two Toyota Land Cruisers for
our seven-member group (me, my wife and son, and the other two children
who had a parent each) and the guide, as well as a third vehicle
carrying food, equipment and the cook.
The
twisting road into the mountains above Mek’ele is a beautiful drive
with sharp-faced peaks, wild vegetation and cool temperatures, but soon
we were descending into the lowlands of the Afar Region and the heat set
in.
The first stop was the town of Berhale, little more than a
collection of makeshift huts made of flapping canvas and corrugated iron
near the highway. Truckers, explorers and others must stop here and
pick up the permits to head into the rest of the region. A string of
restaurants popped up and our guide led us into one, where our group
gathered around a communal platter of the grilled Ethiopian
meat-and-chiles dish known as tibs, accompanied by shiro, a chickpea
sauce that is a national staple. We washed it down with cold beers in
the sweltering noon heat.
In the distance, there was a collection
of tents from a refugee camp of Eritreans that had fled across the
not-very-distant border. It was a grim, hot, stony landscape. Clambering
back into the air-conditioned cars was a real relief.
Timeless images
By
late afternoon, we were slammed by the first of many unforgettable
sights of the Danakil — the camel caravans of the salt trade, a timeless
image that probably hasn’t changed in centuries.
Moving
along at a steady pace, hundreds of camels marched across the brown,
flat landscape in single file, with a herder walking along every dozen
animals or so. Each camel carried tablets of salt that have been carved
out of the ground for the last two millennia.
This “white gold”
is the principal resource of the Danakil. Once, it was used as currency
by the Abyssinian Empire. There also is archaeological evidence that the
ancient empire of Axum, a contemporary of the Roman Empire, traded in
these salt slabs.
The slabs are painstakingly chipped out of the
ground, cut into uniformly sized tablets and loaded on to the camels
every day. Each tablet is worth about a dollar.
At one time, the
caravans would head all the way into Mek’ele, a trip of weeks, but now
they generally just go to Berhale, our midday road stop, in a two-day,
46-mile trek. There, the salt is offloaded onto trucks and taken by the
new road to the rest of the country.
There are about 700
registered salt miners from the Muslim Afar people and the Christian
Tigrayans. As we snapped photos, they called out to us in Arabic,
exchanged greetings and asked for cigarettes and water.
Some
30,000 years ago, the Red Sea covered this low-lying region before
eventually receding and leaving behind the thick salt deposits. Just
before dusk, we arrived at the flats, which look like a skating rink
that stretches on to the horizon. A thin layer of water on the surface
turns it into a mirror and reflects the images of the distant mountains.
The salt is white and looks like snow, making the lines of
camels walking across it seem especially surreal — a bit like a Nativity
scene in a Midwest town after a snowfall, but really hot.
We took off our shoes to keep them from being damaged by the salt before venturing out across the slick, ridged surface.
The
squad of Ethiopian soldiers that accompanied us to the flats — we were,
after all, just a few dozen kilometers from the Eritrean border, which
was still in a state of tension with Ethiopia — was as enchanted by the
scene as we were, posing for selfies in front of the endless, white
plain as the sun set. The children danced across the salt, jumping in
the air and marveling at the little bubbles coming up through the slick
surface.
A
soldier, part of an escort group, looks over the brightly colored
sulfur springs in Ethiopia’s Afar Region. (Paul Schemm/The Washington
Post)
We spent the night in the nearby village under
the open air, with a steady wind that kept us cool despite the muggy
heat. The next morning, it was on to Dallol, which has the unenviable
reputation of being one of the hottest inhabited places on Earth, with
an average temperature of 100 degrees. It is one of the lowest points on
the continent, more than 300 feet below sea level.
A desolate, weird landscape
The
ground became a grim, cracked brown with streaks of color until we
reached a low rise that held bubbling sulfur springs. Cresting the hill,
our eyes were assaulted by colors that should not exist in nature.
Bright
yellow, red and orange mineral deposits surrounded bubbling pools as
steam poured from vents in the ground. It was just 8 a.m., but the heat
was intense: a hot, humid, cloying sensation that had us sweating
profusely in a matter of minutes. Faces soon turned red and clothes
became suffocating. I felt for the soldiers, in their heavy green
camouflage uniforms, but they seemed to be fine as they merrily took
more selfies and helped my son clamber over the rough ground.
In
the distance were some ruined buildings from the 1920s, when the
Italians set up a camp to mine potash until they were driven out by the
British some two decades later in World War II. My mind boggled on how
they were able to survive these temperatures and the rotten-egg smell of
sulfur hanging heavy in the air for so long.
The garishly
colored rocks brought to mind the landscape of an alien planet, but none
of us could stay too long to admire the scene as the heat kept
climbing. We soon headed back down to the Land Cruisers.
There
was more to see in this desolate, weird landscape. Pools of oily mineral
water bubbled up in the flat plains; towers of salt-encrusted
mini-mountains rose up into fantastic shapes. For lunch, we headed back
toward the highlands and stopped at a mountain spring with water gushing
over the cliff into a small pool, which helped us to cool down and wash
off the greasy scent of the mineral springs.
We drove south
along the edge of the highlands to Erta Ale. Close to the mountains, it
once again was a different Ethiopia on view, with green fields of barley
and the local teff grain as well as herds of cattle with immense,
curving, prehistoric-looking horns walking beneath the acacia trees on
the side of the road.
Travelers
in the author’s party admire their reflections in the massive salt
flats of the Afar Region. (Paul Schemm/The Washington Post)
That
night, we slept out under the stars again and dined on grilled lamb.
There was an uncomfortable moment when a scorpion scurried out from the
corner and I searched for a Kleenex to gently scoop it up out of harm’s
way as I would a bug at home.
“Just kill it,” shouted one of my
fellow parents, and it occurred to me that with at least three children
around, it might be time to put aside my Buddhist sensibilities. I
stomped on it with my Birkenstock-clad foot.
The
explorer Thesiger talked about the scorpions during his Danakil
travels. He described putting on his pants with one inside after a dip
in a lake and getting “severely stung.” He reserved his main ire,
however, for the hairy tarantulas — four inches across — that bedeviled
his campsites.
“They scuttle around the camp as soon as the sun
sets,” he wrote in his diary. “Last night we killed twelve in the camp.
In my dreams they assume the most nightmarish proportions.”
Luckily
for us, the tarantulas seemed to have gone the way of the big game that
Thesiger so delighted in hunting during his travels.
Journey to the volcano
The
trip the next day to the volcano was a study in the declining quality
of roads. We went from a broad, paved highway to a wide, gravel track
before driving over the tortuous, bumpy lava fields at just a few miles
per hour.
Finally, it was even too much for our intrepid Land
Cruisers and we reached a collection of round, stone huts with thatched
roofs that became a kind of base camp for trips by foot up the volcano.
Here,
camel drivers, soldiers and local militia members often hang out until
expeditions like ours come for the final three-hour, six-mile trek to
the caldera.
With our cars left behind, it suddenly felt like we
were in the true Thesiger territory from his 1930s diaries, in which he
talked endlessly about the state of his camels and donkeys, and
negotiations with their owners.
We hired three camels for the
trip, one for our gear and the other two for anyone who grew tired
during the hike. We also had a few militia members to accompany us.
While
the Danakil today is nothing like it was in the time of Thesiger, when
strangers were often killed on the spot and rival tribes were engaged in
incessant raids against each other, it does have a bit of a lawless
reputation, making armed accompaniment now an official requirement.
In
2012, a group of tourists was attacked at the volcano by armed
tribesmen. Five died and two were kidnapped. In 2007, another group that
included British Embassy staffers was also briefly taken hostage. Since
then, there has been a security post installed at the volcano, and
embassies have gradually lifted travel restrictions.
Bright lines show the cracks in the moving surface of Erta Ale's lava lake. (Jim Keir/Alamy Stock Photo)
It
was a rare cloudy day, so we were able to start the trek in the late
afternoon instead of dusk, which is the traditional tactic to escape the
sun. We walked across a stark, beautiful landscape of dark-gray lava
flows that contrasted sharply with tufts of straw-colored grass. The
lava had the cracked and folded appearance of asphalt at an abandoned
city basketball court.
The three-hour trek on a slight incline
isn’t challenging for someone in shape, and even my 7-year-old and the
9-year-old were able to make it, with the occasional stint riding high
on a camel. The final hour, however, was in pitch black lit by our
flashlights and the distant glow of the volcano.
At the summit,
our guide led us down into the plain around the crater and we scrambled
over lava flows that were just a day or two old. Once, you could camp
right next to the crater. In the past year, though, Erta Ale has become
quite active. We only made it within about 70 yards of the bubbling
cauldron before the heat kept us back.
We watched in awe as the
lava leapt and fell back into the glowing bowl and made a strange
hissing noise. Exhausted and footsore, we made our painstaking way back
across the lava plain and up the cliff to watch the light show.
Later
that evening, the lava overflowed the crater at several points. It was
hard not to wonder if there was now fresh magma where we had just been
standing.
We awoke before dawn after a restless night. The
bone-dry Danakil only gets seven inches of rain a year, but it all
seemed to have fallen that night, resulting in a frantic scurry for the
huts.
Thesiger often wrote about starting his treks at 5 a.m.,
before the sun grew too hot, and so we too started the climb down in the
predawn grayness. A last glimpse of the volcano showed it to be as
active as ever, with red patches of lava, cooling in the plain, visible
to us even as the sky brightened
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